Consultation procedure

As part of its 2023-2028 accreditation, Refashion, the eco-organisation for the textiles and footwear sector, has launched a call for tenders to develop the recycling and the reincorporation of Clothes, Household linen and Footwear (CHF) wastes.

The European recycling sector for non-reusable CHF does not absorb all of the waste collected in France. However, there are industrial capacities that could recycle, absorb and reincorporate into finished products a much larger proportion of this waste.

One of the obstacles to the attractiveness of this waste is the cost of processing it for recycling. Industrial preprocessing and material preparation units are not yet operational and are not yet achieving the expected economies of scale.

As a result, players interested in incorporating this resource into their production prefer to use virgin materials or recycled materials from distant sources, for reasons of competitiveness.

Because we don't have the luxury of waiting for the preprocessing units to ramp up, Refashion is launching its first Recycling Development Call for Tenders.

It concerns two markets: spinning and thermal and acoustic insulation in the construction sector. These are the only two sectors capable of incorporating industrial volumes of fibres from non-reusable CHF in the very short term.

The purpose of these procurement contracts is to enable Refashion to meet its objectives as set out in the specifications of the approved eco-organisations for the EPR sector for CHF (appendix I of the ministerial order of 23 November 2022 on the specifications of the eco-organisations and individual systems for the extended producer responsibility sector for CHF).

The eco-organisation is required by law to select companies capable of providing a service that complies with the regulations in force, using a selection procedure based on transparent award criteria.

Refashion has selected its service providers for the following 2 procurement contracts:

• Insulation Procurement Contract: this procurement contract consists of developing the recycled quantity of materials from non-reusable used CHF by placing on the market acoustic and thermal insulation materials for the building industry incorporating these materials.

This procurement contract covers a maximum total quantity of 20,000 tonnes of materials from non-reusable used CHF separated into 40 identical batches of 500 tonnes each.

• Yarn Procurement Contract: this procurement contract consists of increasing the quantity of recycled textile fibres from non-reusable used CHF by placing yarn incorporating these fibres on the market.

This procurement contract covers a maximum total quantity of 500 tonnes of materials from non-reusable used CHF separated into 20 identical batches of 25 tonnes each.

Selection method

The call for tenders launched by Refashion was organised in accordance with the provisions of article L. 541-10-6 of the French Environment Code concerning contracts awarded by eco-organisations, in a non-discriminatory manner and according to a procedure based on transparent award criteria and an allotment giving rise to the widest possible competition.

All the applications submitted by the candidates were analysed and the operators were selected on the basis of the following scoring criteria:

• Technical

• Economic

• Proximity

• Employing people benefiting from the economic integration scheme

Companies selected

The results of the consultations are published in accordance with article L541-10-6 of the French Environment Code.

Here is the list of companies selected for the Yarn Product and Insulating Product contracts for the used CHF sector up to 30 June 2025.

Breakdown of the companies by size