13th edition of Refashion Innovation Challenge
Refashion's Innovation Challenge is back for its 13th edition! Find out more about the call for R&D projects and how to apply!
Sorting and material preparation
Sorting and material preparation: key steps for efficient recycling
The precise sorting and thorough preparation of materials are key to a competitive recycling process meeting high standards of quality.
Challenges, technologies and innovations that make textile recycling more efficient and sustainable.
Read on to find out more!
Understanding sorting and preparation: the basis for effective recycling
Sorting and preparing materials are key stages in the efficient recycling of used textiles and footwear.
They make it possible to identify the composition of products, remove disruptors, and turn the materials (grinding, shredding, tearing/garnetting, etc.) into the format that meets the technical requirements of recyclers.
By optimising these phases upstream, we can better recover even the most complex textiles and footwear, and encourage the emergence of efficient, sustainable industrial recycling solutions.
Find out more about the key stages in material preparation and the process that will transform textiles and footwear into new resources.
Why do we need to sort and prepare materials?
Textiles and footwear are often made up of multiple materials, used alone or blended with others (cotton, polyester, wool). They can also include multi-layer components (linings, fastenings, logos) and hard points (metal, stiff plastic).
This complexity makes recycling more difficult, since recyclers need clearly identified and homogenous materials to ensure the efficiency of their mechanical, thermomechanical or chemical processes.
Rigorous upstream sorting makes it possible to:
- Channel each waste product towards the most appropriate recycling technology
- Improve the quality and purity of recycled materials
- Create value by channelling waste towards the best recovery processes.
Challenges to be addressed and emerging technologies
To make textile and footwear recycling more efficient, a number of technological challenges need to be addressed:
1 Precisely identify materials, which are often blended, in order to optimise sorting and recycling. Trials are under way on sensors and automated analyses (IR, hyperspectral imaging, artificial intelligence, etc.) to meet this need.
This challenge is addressed in Refashion's “Characterisation study of waste streams entering and leaving sorting centres” (April 2023), which provides detailed data on the make-up of waste streams and helps to steer innovations in sorting and material preparation.
2 Detect and remove disruptors, such as metal or stiff plastic, which make mechanical or chemical recycling more difficult.
Refashion’s “Study of disruptors and facilitators in the recycling of clothing, household linen and footwear” (February 2025) analyses these obstacles and suggests ways to automate their identification and removal.
Our studies and initiatives to support the industry
Technology watch
Refashion constantly monitors the latest advances in automation, artificial intelligence and industrial processes.
Material library
Refashion provides access to its material libraries to identify textile components rapidly, while also upgrading the technological systems of suppliers.
R&D funding schemes
Refashion actively supports the development of innovative solutions at every stage in textile and footwear recycling: material/colour recognition sensors, automated trim removal tools, and many more. Find out more about our schemes to accelerate circular innovation.